Sunday, 3 July 2016

Why I’m in love with Sri Lanka

Friday marked the end of my wonderful five week placement in Sri Lanka. I left my last project with an overwhelming mix of feelings; sadness at leaving such amazing kids behind, pride at what I have achieved, relief that I would finally get a rest and excitement at my adventures to come. What I have found hardest these past few days is the knowledge that things will never be the same again. The evenings spent with roommates chasing bugs out of the room, the stressful Monday morning project planning, the journeys on crowded buses to get to projects, the weekends spent admiring breath-taking views and the meals shared with people from all over the world. Even if we managed to all meet-up and be together again, nothing will actually be the same. And nobody will understand what we all went through, not really, not unless they were there. They may understand what it’s like to cope with the suffocating humidity and heat, with very questionable fashion choices made with only practicality and decency in mind. Maybe they would understand the beauty witnessed every time the sun set in the sky. They may even understand the frustration felt after an unsuccessful project, a mixture of deflation that hard work had not paid off with determination to do better next time. But they will never understand what it was like to be there at that moment in time with that particular group of people. I hope my memory can do these experiences justice. I hope in the future I can recall how I felt sat on a beach seeing Mars in the sky for the very first time. Or how beautiful an Asian elephant is when it’s only 5 feet away. I hope I remember every time a kid smiled at me, reassuring me that the work I was doing was worthwhile. Most of all, I hope I always remember how free I felt when I danced. Whether it was at a bar with my friends or at a project with people who don’t speak my language. I never want to forget that feeling.

Over the past five weeks, Sri Lanka has completely captured my heart. I have witnessed beauty that I didn’t even know existed in the world, and I am totally smitten. So here are seven reasons that I am in love with Sri Lanka.

7. The views
Before I came to Sri Lanka, I had never heard about the views that I would witness. As an island nation, it boasts the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. With pure white sand, and the clearest of waters, the beaches look like your typical tropical island that I honestly believed only existed in pictures. The sunset over the sea is truly spectacular with the sun so big in the sky, reflecting its light over the ocean and creating temporary, yet extraordinary views. Views over the mountains left me completely speechless; with greenery extended as far as the eye could see. Every day in Sri Lanka I saw something beautiful.

6. Being barefoot
I have always hated wearing shoes. I remember being told off by my dad as a child for always going into the garden or across the road to neighbours houses without shoes on. I take my shoes off at work back home, and walk around in my socks or in slippers. Shoes just feel too restrictive to me. I have spent the majority of my time barefoot here, whether it was on a beach, at a project, or even walking through the street to a temple. I love the feel of the ground beneath my feet, it feels so natural to me.

5. The food
Rice and curry will never be as good as it is in Sri Lanka. The mixture of spices and flavours are perfectly moulded together into a plate of deliciousness that you scoop up with your hands and into your mouth. Most curries I have eaten have been vegetable based, often with vegetables I have never heard of. At my homestay, I always looked forward to dinner, to see what was in store for us that night. Everything is so full of flavour. My tolerance for spicy food has gone through the roof, to the point that today I sat and sweated whilst eating my lunch from the spice, and the burning around my lips afterwards serving as a reminder of the amazing food I had just consumed. Coconuts are found everywhere, and are served whole, with the top cut off and a straw placed inside to allow you to soak up the wonderfully refreshing water within. Rotti and paratas have been my favourite lunchtime foods, a mixture of dough and spiced vegetables serving as a perfect recharge in the middle of the day. The bananas are exceptionally sweet, rambutan are available to buy at any roadside, and pineapples were served up having just been picked from outside the house. The array of colours and vibrant flavours in all the food is something that I have enjoyed thoroughly, and will miss dearly.

4. The wildlife
On a walk home from projects one day I was followed home by around ten monkeys, all running along telephone wires and throwing themselves from tree to tree. Whilst mildly terrifying, it was also rather wonderful. Dogs and cats are everywhere, and I have had the privilege to cuddle a few adorable puppies with their owners blessing. Chipmunks scurry around just like squirrels do back home, but are cheekier and smaller. The dragonflies and butterflies that inhabit the air around you are the most colourful I’ve ever seen, a mixture of bright blues and greens swirled into stunning patterns. The fireflies come out at night, looking like Christmas lights dancing around providing light in the darkness. Cows roam the streets, often walking down the middle of the road with the traffic barely noticing the minor detour it has to take around the animals. Wild elephants can be spotted at night, if you are in the right place at the right time. Geckos frequently visit bedrooms at night, climbing up walls and hurrying out of sight. The wildlife has made this trip truly special, and has constantly amazed me.

3. Positivity
I would consider myself a fairly positive person; I prefer to see the good in a situation than the bad, and believe the best in people. Sri Lankans are the most positive people I have met. So many times I have had one say to me “why are you worried?” with an explanation that worrying won’t actually help or change anything. They are the friendliest bunch of people, always saying hello when passing you on the street, and holding your bag on the bus when it’s too busy for you to sit down. Everyone helps everyone out. I have witnessed such kindness in people every single day, which is refreshing to see. The positive atmosphere rubs off on you, making you feel much more chilled out and relaxed. Sri Lankan Time is a side effect of this laid back attitude. Any time you are given to meet somewhere, add fifteen minutes and it will be the actual time you will be met. I took this all in my stride. Children everywhere would say hello and smile at me wherever I went. At the end of a teaching project, the students would shake your hand and say “thank you, teacher”. Other people would ask where you were going and help you to get there. You could turn up at a bus station with no idea how to get to your destination, simply say the name of it and it would be worked out for you and the correct bus or buses pointed out. It’s so different from the usual head down and walk through Birmingham city ignoring everyone. I really will miss it.

2. Simplicity
The lack of internet, television and computers has forced a simpler lifestyle upon me. The hours spent watching Netflix have turned into hours available for reading. I have finished 8 books in 5 weeks. I don’t think I have read 8 books in the last year. I have missed the joy of losing myself in a good book, of immersing myself completely in another world hungrily seeking answers to questions brought up and being thrilled at every plot twist and turn. Other free time has been spent in the company of people from all over the world, sharing stories from our lives and laughing until our bellies hurt. The lack of hot water hasn’t bothered me. Sharing one bathroom between four people was surprisingly easy. I found that the simplicity of living helped me to feel less stressed, moulding me into a far more chilled out person.

1. The people
People can make or break a trip like this, and I have been so lucky to work and live with some of the best. For most of my trip my roommates consisted of an Italian, an American, a Glaswegian and myself (sounds like the start of a bad joke, I know). We found common ground in our love of computer games and science fiction and in my three roommates’ fear of spiders, cockroaches and other bugs that I found myself ridding our bedroom of most nights, whilst they stood by squealing. The four of us became rather proficient at catching and squishing mosquitos (sadly, usually after they had sucked the blood out of one of us), and bonded over shared Nutella at breakfast time. Nobody blinked an eyelid when walking into a room to find roommates in various stages of undress due to the stifling heat. Nobody spoke to each other first thing in the morning, with a mutual understanding that doing so could result in losing a limb. We talked and cheered each other up after bad days. Insults and banter flowed freely, as if we had all known each other for years rather than weeks. But when you’re thrown into a situation where you both live and work with people, friendships that would usually take months to build up are created in a day. Choruses of “it’s too hot” became part of the bonding experience. When someone was ill, they were looked after. It was like we formed our own little family, one in which I looked forward to coming home to every evening. Emma, Aishani and Alice, if you are reading this, thank you for being the best roommates I could have hoped for. I will treasure every memory forever, and consider myself lucky to have had the privilege of getting to know you all.

The six other people on my intake became another great circle of friends. I remember the first time I met everyone, in the minibus on the way to orientation. Jen had arrived in the early hours of the morning, and was excessively hyper due to sleep deprivation. Brandon turned up an hour or so into orientation having only just landed in the country. Chris was suffering from sickness, and I think the rest of us were rather out of it due to jetlag. Yet here we were, all sat around a table with no idea what the next five weeks were going to hold. We clicked instantly. Jungle weekend helped to consolidate our friendships over too much alcohol, games of never have I ever and dancing in the rain. Over the weeks we worked together at various projects and spent weekends exploring Sri Lanka with other volunteers. We witnessed beauty so pure it made us cry. We experienced frustrating long, hot and crowded bus journeys together. We had rough days together. We supported each other and built each other up. I think we made a damn good team, and I am so proud of every single person. So a shout out to Jen, Hannah, Fliss, Karen, Chris and Brandon, my Horana/Bandaragama  30th May intake crew. I think we did pretty good. I wish for good things for all of you, and hope the future brings what you desire.

To anybody I met whilst in Sri Lanka, thank you for being awesome. Whether we stay in touch and see each other when possible, or whether life takes us in separate directions, I will always treasure the memories we shared. The good and the bad. I wouldn’t have had it any other way.


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